Guaranteed to work or return for a refund! Remember to power the wire and Contact us immediately if you have no luck with this item. 

 

ATTENTION. Try this before investing in a big/expensive/ugly new antenna!

 

Improve your radio receptions with a AM FM Signal Amplifier with DIN to DIN Universal Connection from DIG Options. These days many of the new vehicles have window mounted antennas. The installation of an aftermarket stereo may cause a drop in signal strength which this amplifier can help to improve. 

 

Product Features:

Designed to strengthen the radio signal strength in your vehicle. Designed to fit Stereo/Vehicle with Din Connection like that in the listing image. 12V Easy to install inline adapter Results may vary from car to car and performance is not guaranteed. The blue wire will need to be connected to your remote antenna wire or, if not available please connect to the ignition ACC+ wire of your car/stereo.

Don't get conned into buying a FILTER! Many sellers try to pass off a filter as a booster. These parts look similar but have no amplification components. Just a couple of resistors. 

 

Key Features:

• This product is 100% GUARANTEED or just return for a FULL REFUND. We have sold 1000's of these with a 97% SUCCESS RATE
• Developed by Engineers at Masten
• In-Line Design which hides in your dash and plugs directly into your full size DIN stereo socket
• Full Coverage of all AM/FM broadcasted radio stations
• Designed with universal motorola female and male ends
• Connect it inline with your antenna and connect the red wire to your power antenna lead or another ignition12V source
• No modification needed, professional installation is recommended but certainly easy for a skilled DIYer
• Many of the newer model of Audi, BMW, Mercedes and VW vehicles brand come with an inline booster similar to this one but the end is european one

 

Manufactured from High Quality Materials – 1 Year Aus Warranty!

 

Looking for a Premium Navigation DVD Bluetooth IN-DASH System? Checkout our store categories for a suitable solution or contact us. All of our Plug and Play GPS, Multimedia and Bluetooth Systems feature the highest specifications and quality. Contact us for more information or if you can’t find a suitable in-dash changeover stereo. All of our systems are Australian approved and warranted.

Other Accessories for your Vehicle are in our store including:

1. Plug and Play Premium Integrated Navigation DVD Bluetooth Systems
2. Fascia Stereo Surrounds
3. Premium Reverse Cameras
4. In-Car Entertainment Monitors
5. Dash Removal Tools
6. Tyre Pressure Monitor Systems
7. Off Road Navigation Software
8. Home Electronics and much more

 

There may be imitations on the market but there's only one Factory Fit.

 

Factory Fit, a Seller you can Trust!

 

Since 2008 we have built up a reputation of selling products that offer value for money with unbeatable After Sales Support. If you're after a high quality and functional products for your vehicle and would prefer to deal with a local seller for ongoing support then look no further. Dealing with overseas sellers from China and HK (or sellers that tell you an item is located in Australia but then send to you from overseas) can sometimes be a pleasant experience but often when things turn bad you'll never hear from them again. As an Australian seller, we offer a local phone number and back our product for the life of the warranty and beyond.

 

Education:

Radio Signal Amplifiers

Many people think they need a signal amplifier because they experience noisy radio reception, and in reality, the problem may be noise induced by the vehicle itself, or due to improper installation of high-powered audio amplifiers or equalizer equipment.

When installing ANY audio equipment, it is important to run a separate heavy-duty ground (–) wire to the battery, and not just attach negative wires to the vehicle chassis. If you install a signal amplifier on a vehicle that has an electrically noisy electrical system, you will invariably make the problem worse. It is therefore very important that you correctly identify the problem before you attempt a "solution". This article (and those referenced with the hyperlinks) hopefully addresses all possibilities.

BASICALLY: You need a signal amplifier if the radio station you want to listen to is weak, or fades in and out while the vehicle is standing still with the engine off, AND the CD / DVD / iPod (aux jack) is functioning properly regardless of whether the engine is on or off. You need to run a separate heavy-duty ground wire to the battery negative terminal if your CD /DVD / iPod (aux jack) is picking up hum, static, or high-pitched whining with the engine running.

UNFORTUNATELY, some of you have correctly identified the problem as a weak radio signal in a fringe area, or not enough gain from a shorter antenna you might have installed to make your vehicle more "bush-worthy", but have attempted to fix that problem with a BOGUS solution; a cheap antenna "amp"

HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of these units are being sold by sellers all over the Internet, No doubt, many of these sellers are not aware that the product is a ten cent P.O.S. that CANNOT POSSIBLY WORK, doesn't work, and contains no components that could be called "signal amplifier" or "signal booster" in any sense of the word.

Many people have devoted hours to installing this thing, and some have convinced themselves that it made a difference because they invested so much effort into its installation, but it is ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE that the device can amplify a radio signal, because there are NO TUNED CIRCUITS, and absolutely NO SEMICONDUCTOR COMPONENTS in the device at all.

If you installed a short radio antenna or rubber "trail antenna" on your vehicle to prevent it thrashing about as you drive on back-woods trails, or are simply in or travelling through a fringe area where your radio reception sucks, there IS a solution to the problem, but it ISN'T the $3.89 piece of crap advertised on eBay, which is the same piece of junk you can get from a host of other sellers on the Internet. 

 

A signal amplifier has nothing to do with eliminating noise caused by the alternator or other components in your vehicle. An RF (Radio Frequency) signal amplifier is designed to operate on a specific band of frequencies, and it requires tuned circuits and transistors or tuned circuits and integrated circuits. This is the least of what you should expected to find in the "amplifier" built into the aluminium tube

When you open these up and look inside you will see 

a 10uFd, 25WVDC capacitor and two resistors on a circuit board.

While this circuit might filter out some alternator whine, it is definitely NOT an amplifier of any sort. In addition, the Working Voltage (25 Volts) on the capacitor is much too small; voltage spikes on the vehicle's electrical system could cause the capacitor to short out, and while in this circuit, a shorted capacitor is unlikely to start a fire, your radio reception if this happens will suddenly be next to nothing. 

 

Noise Troubleshooting Guide -- Eliminate your alternator whine
Found this guide on another forum, and given the slew of recent threads on troubleshooting noise, thought I would post it here. One word of warning is that some HEAD Units and/or processors nowadays have a zero bit mute, which essentially cuts off the output during low signal passages to reduce noise.....so be aware if this is a feature your unit has. Onward to the guide;

How can you eliminate alternator whine in a car audio system?

If you have alternator whine in a car audio system and want to get rid of it, there is only one sure-fire way to do it. David Navone and Richard Clark from Autosound 2000 in the USA developed the following step-by-step instructions. If you follow the instructions EXACTLY, you are guaranteed to trace and eliminate the noise in your car audio system. Don’t miss a step and don’t assume that something is OK without checking it.

Each time you check for noise, you should do it with the engine running at 1500 to 2000 rpm and the headlights on full beam so that the alternator will be charging. The tests with the CD player connected should be done with a ‘zero bit’ track playing and the volume at maximum. Set your CD player to ‘repeat’ if it has that feature.

Safety. Make sure when doing noise tests that the parking brake is on and working, and that the vehicle is in neutral or ‘park’. Perform these tests in an area with good ventilation or use an extension hose on the exhaust to route the fumes outside.

Step 1. Check the Amplifiers

1a. Unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier/s and mute the signal at the input by using shorting plugs. This will isolate the amplifier from the rest of the car stereo installation. You can make shorting plugs by taking cheap male RCA plugs and soldering the centre and outer terminals together. This shorts out the input of the amplifier/s to ensure that it has zero signal.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Go straight to Step 2. Reduce The System.
No. Go to 1b.

1b. Disconnect the speakers from the amp and connect a pair of test speakers to it. Make sure the test speakers are not in contact with the car body. The purpose of this step is to ensure proper isolation of the speakers and the speaker leads from the car's chassis.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Check speakers, speaker leads and passive crossovers for proper isolation from the car's chassis. Shift passive crossovers to a location away from power cables and the car’s body.
No. Go to 1c.

1c. Isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the car. There must not be any electrical contact between the car's chassis and the amplifier, except for the grounding point.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the amplifier isolated from the chassis of the car. Make sure that the amplifier is grounded in just one point.
No. Go to 1d.

1d. Supply the amplifier with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12-Volt DC power supply.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Noise is entering the amplifier via the power supply, try changing the grounding point and add external power supply filtering. Consider changing the amplifier.
No. The amplifier has some severe problems, is totally isolated and still noisy. Replace it or have it repaired.

That is the end of Step 1. You have now either eliminated the amplifier and speakers as a problem or you have replaced a faulty amplifier. Now you can go on to Step 2.

Step 2. Reduce the System.

2a. The amplifier is known to be OK. It is now time to disconnect any signal processors (equaliser, electronic crossover, etc.) and connect the signal from the output of the head unit directly into the input of the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The noise source must be either one or more of the processors or possibly the signal route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you didn’t have any signal processors and you are using the signal cable in its normal, installed route then the problem is solved.
No. Go to 2b.

2b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the head unit and the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Permanently route the signal cables in the new route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2c.

2c. Isolate the case of the head unit from car's chassis. There must not be any electrical contact between the head unit and car chassis except for a single grounding point. Beware of antenna grounds and pullout cases!

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit isolated from the car's chassis and any other metal parts in the dash. Ground the head unit at one point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2d.

2d. Move the head unit ground to a quieter grounding point. Test a number of points and also try grounding the head unit to the same point as the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit using the quiet grounding point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2e.

2e. Move the head unit as near to the amplifier as possible. Then connect output of the head unit to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit one step at a time. Check for noise after each step during the reinstallation. Once you have the head unit installed, noise free go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2f.

2f. Supply the head unit with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12 VDC power supply. Make sure that car chassis is not in contact with the head unit.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The head unit is sensitive to noise in the supply voltage. Add power supply filtering to the supply voltage for the head unit or use an isolated power supply. You may be better to change the head unit. Once you have a head unit installed noise free, go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. There is a serious problem with the head unit. Go to Step 4 'Check the Vehicle' and/or change the head unit.

Step 3. Add Signal Processors.

At this level the amplifier is known to be good. The car's electrical system is OK and the reinstalled head unit is working fine when connected directly to the amplifier.

3a. Connect one of the Processors back into the signal path.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3b.

3b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the Head-unit and processor and between the Processor and the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Permanently route the cables on the new quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3c.

3c. Isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a single grounding point. Connect the processor ground to the same grounding point as the head unit.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Provide isolation between the Processor and the car's chassis and permanently route the cables on the known quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3d.

3d. Since new cables and re-grounding does not help, it is time to relocate the processor very near the amplifier. Connect the output of the processor to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the Processor one step at a time. Check for noise after each step in the reinstallation. Be careful when routing the signalcables. Remember that the car's chassis is a conductor. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3e.

3e. Power the processor with an isolated power supply. Do not let the processor touch the chassis of the car.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The processor’s power supply in not sufficiently isolated from its audio circuitry. Either replace it or consider the permanent installation of an isolated power supply (1:1 DC/DC converter). This type of device provides a permanent power source that is well isolated from the car's chassis. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3f.

3f. Physically separate the processor and the isolated power supply from the rest of the system by many metres. Use long signal cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Something is seriously wrong with either the processor or your install/test procedures. Please repeat this level from the beginning.
No. Change Processor -- this one has design problems. Go back to 3a for the new processor.

Step 4. Check the Vehicle

The suspect car's charging and electrical systems can be checked by using the previously installed sound system in a "known quiet" car.

4a. Connect jumper cables between the batteries of the two vehicles and start the engine of the suspect car. Turn on the headlights on the suspect car and listen to the stereo on the "known quiet" car.

Is there now noise in the quiet car’s system?
Yes. Have a qualified auto electrician check out the car’s charging system.
No. The suspect car's alternator and charging system is now proven to be quiet. The problem must lie in the car stereo installation -- not in the vehicle.